How To Spot A Responsible Breeder


Finding a Responsible Breeder takes time, patience and lots of communication. My advice is always to speak with several breeders, see who you “vibe” with and who your gut tells you cares the most about their line. A good Breeder becomes a member of your extended family and a friend you can count on for years to come.Signs to look for when buying a puppy.

If you look up the word “breeder” on Wikipedia you will find a definition that reads: “A breeder is a person who selectively breeds carefully selected mates, normally of the same breed to sexually reproduce offspring with specific, consistently replicable qualities and characteristics.” Unfortunately, this isn’t always the case.

There’s a big difference between a Responsible Preservation Breeder and an irresponsible breeder. Sometimes referred to as “Backyard Breeders”, irresponsible breeders breed dogs without much effort in breeding selectively, and are generally doing it to make money or simply for the experience of raising puppies. A Responsible Preservation Breeder is someone who has been dedicated for years (often decades) to contributing to the preservation and improvement of their breed of choice.

For a puppy buyer in this day and age it can be tough to tell the difference between the two. If you don’t really know where to look it’s easy to get caught by flashy, “first pages up in the search” Google and Facebook results, filled with adorable puppy photos. The truth is though, that anyone with a couple hundred dollars can hire a web designer to put together an impressive site.

To begin your search for a Responsible Breeder, I always recommend connecting with a breeder who is a member of the Canadian Kennel Club by using their Puppy List. To use the Puppy List, simply type in the name of the breed you’re interested in, then click on the text beneath the image of the dog. Once you do, a list of nearby breeders’ contact information will appear.

How can a puppy buyer know if they are dealing with a reputable, responsible and dedicated Preservation Breeder? There are some clues to look for.

A Responsible Preservation Breeder:Puts tons of thought and consideration into each litter. They study pedigrees, go to shows, and meet other breeders and dogs. Arranging a mating often takes weeks, possibly months of corresponding with fellow breeders. Their female was screened and cleared by veterinary specialists for health issues and they verify that the stud dog undergoes similar testing. They travel great hours or pay to have the stud brought to their home.

Wants to know all about you and your plans for the puppy. A Responsible Preservation Breeder will ask questions like: What hours do you work? Have you owned a dog before? What dog sports do you plan on participating in? Do you have children? Does anyone in your home have allergies? Have you hired a dog walker? Have you picked a Veterinarian? Many request that potential puppy buyers fill out questionnaires.
Is happy to introduce you to the puppies’ mother and maybe other relatives as well. A Responsible Preservation Breeder is proud of the dogs they have bred as they are committed to producing puppies that are good examples of their breed, with great health as well as temperament.
Is in no hurry to sell you a puppy. They will correspond with you to see if you are a right fit for one of their puppies. A Responsible Preservation Breeder won’t let their puppies go to their new homes until they are between 8 and 12 weeks. They may not have a litter right now and may have to put you on a waiting list.
Provides a record of all the vaccines, de-worming and veterinary attention the puppy has received to date. Most Responsible Preservation Breeders offer detailed health guarantees.
Will gladly give you the phone numbers and emails of past puppy buyers so that you can speak with them about their dogs and their experience.
Will commit to registering the litter and puppies with the Canadian Kennel Club. As the breeder has six months from the date of sale to get the papers to the new owners, a Responsible Preservation Breeder will gladly show you the dam and sire’s certificates of registration.
Is continuously interested in your puppy after they go home. They are always there to answer questions via email, call or text. A Responsible Preservation Breeder wants to see pictures of how your boy or girl is doing. They are genuinely excited when your dog completes puppy kindergarten, gets his first ribbon at a show or starts agility.
Is a member of the Canadian Kennel Club, as well as a National Breed Club and probably a local kennel club as well. This is to expand their network of dedicated breeders and participate in shows and trials.
Actively competes in CKC events like conformation, lure coursing, hunting trails/tests and/or obedience. A Responsible Preservation Breeder is happy to show you photos, ribbons and trophies their dogs have won.
Isn’t afraid to refuse selling you a puppy if they find you or your current situation unsuitable. The well-being of their dogs is priority number one to a Responsible Preservation Breeder.
A Responsible Breeder will move mountains before one of their dogs end up in a shelter. If an unfortunate circumstance arises, they will take back your dog if you are unable to keep him, and find him a good home.

The Strongest Reinforcements

puppy jeopardy treats


Ask a dog trainer to tell you one of their biggest pet peeves about their training clients, and they will almost always mention the fact that the average dog owner almost seems to actively resist the concept of “high-value rewards.”

I’ve sat in on a lot of different trainers’ classes, and during the first session, all trainers make an effort to describe the treats they want to see their clients bring to puppy kindergarten and beginning dog training classes: extra-special treats, such as fresh meats and tiny cubes of fragrant cheeses. Extra-high-value treats are needed, it is explained, because the group-class environment is so exciting and distracting to the dogs and puppies who are new to this, that the owners will need reinforcers of the highest value to the dogs, to capture and hold their attention in a highly distracting environment. (A training center can also be very stressful for shy, undersocialized, or fearful dogs.)

I’ve heard trainers go on and on, for 10 minutes at a time, about the need for really succulent foods to be used as treats (not just dried treats or kibble, no matter how food-motivated the pup or dog is at home), not feeding the dogs before class (so the pup won’t be full of food already and unable to physically eat much more), cutting the treats into tiny bits (so many of them can be fed in a class), including a variety (not just one type, so the dog doesn’t get bored), and bringing more than the owner thinks she might possibly need, because you will be using many, many tiny treats in a 50-minute beginning dog-training class.

Trainers make such a fuss over the value and type and variety and amount of treats because, again and again, owners arrive to class and are shocked—SHOCKED!—to discover that:

Their dogs are too distracted or stressed to take any but the most over-the-top delicious treats in the class setting.

Their dogs completely disregard the owners’ pouches full of cut-up hot dogs and, instead, go bananas for the trainer’s samples of stinky cheese, tuna bits, roast beef, and freeze-dried liver.

By the end of the class, when the trainer is saying, “Yes! That was great! Mark and reward that behavior!” and the owners often reply, “But I’m out of treats!”

To defend their choices, almost all owners will say, “But he works for kibble at home! I thought hot dogs would be ‘high-value’ enough! And I cut that hot dog into 20 pieces!”


(For what it’s worth, when I use hot dogs as training treats, I cut each one into about 64 pieces: Slice them lengthwise, roll it over halfway and slice it lengthwise again, so you have four long, skinny pieces. Then, holding it together, slice it across, about 16 times, so you end up with 64 or so tiny treats.)

By the end of a six-week class, though, any trainer worth her salt should be able to peek in every student’s bait bag and see a wide variety of scrumptious meats and cheeses and treats, all cut into tiny bits. Success!!

What are The 10 Most Important Things to Teach A Puppy

Your new puppy will learn his most vital skills through lots of appropriate socializing and positive training techniques.

right not allowed on furniture wink

I don’t care what breed or mix of breeds you’re talking about, puppies are inarguably, impossibly and adorably cute. You have to be pretty hardhearted and cold or otherwise emotionally damaged not to get gushy over baby dogs, with their innocent faces, sweet puppy breath, satiny ears, and soft pink paw pads. It’s no wonder that people adopt or purchase them, take them home, and then all too often don’t know how to properly care for them.

It shouldn’t surprise me but it does, still, that there are far too many people out there who don’t seem to have a clue about how to properly raise a puppy. Dog Nanny Blog readers and clients are not likely to fall into the “completely clueless” category, but in case you haven’t had a puppy for a while – or ever – and recently adopted or are thinking of adopting, here’s a refresher course for you on the topic of the 10 most important things you should teach your puppy.

1. Socialize Your Puppy to Many Situations
If you teach her nothing else, teach your puppy that the world is a safe and happy place. The formal name for this process is “socialization,” and it means taking your puppy lots of places, exposing her to different sights, sounds, surfaces, humans and other animals, and making sure she’s having a good time while doing so. You want to give her a positive classical association with the world and all things she’s likely to encounter in her dog life. Lots of people understand the part about taking their puppy lots of different places for socialization. They sometimes miss the critically important part: making sure the puppy has a good time.

The primary socialization window is alarmingly small – from three to four weeks to about 13 to 14 weeks. If you get your pup at age eight weeks, half that period is already gone – so hopefully the owner of the pup’s mother has already laid a good socialization foundation. Now it’s your turn.

Take your puppy to safe places where you can control the environment to a reasonable degree. Loud parties and crowded street fairs are not a good idea. Small social gatherings, controlled groups of children, and well-run force-free puppy classes are. Find businesses that welcome pets (many hardware stores and outdoor cafes are pet-friendly) and take her shopping with you (but don’t leave her in a hot car!).

If she seems fearful at any time, move her away from the fear-causing stimulus, let her observe from a safe distance, and feed high-value treats to help her have a good association with the thing, whatever it is. Then make a mental note (or keep a written list!) of things you want to help her become more comfortable with by doing focused counter-conditioning sessions.

For more information, see “Properly Socializing Your Puppy.”

2. Prevent Separation Anxiety by Leaving Your Puppy Alone
Dogs are social animals. In a world not controlled by humans, our dogs would spend most of their time in the company of others. Feral dog populations show us that, while not a true pack in the “wolf” sense of the world, wild dogs tend to exist in loose-knit social groups and do choose to be in the company of others of their own kind. In contrast, in our world, a significant population of canines are “only dogs” and are left home alone for eight to 10 hours or even longer. The incidence of separation and isolation anxiety behaviors (SA and IA) in our canine companions is sad testimony to this.

To avoid inducing SA or IA in your pup, introduce her to “aloneness” gradually. Include crate or exercise-pen training during this process so she can be left safely confined while you are away. Plan to take at least a few days off work after your pup arrives so you can help her get accustomed to longer and longer periods alone. Play with her first so she’s tired, then put her in her crate or pen, give her a food-stuffed Kong or other yummy chew, and sit nearby, reading or working on your computer. Slowly increase your distance from her and the length of time you leave her alone, until she is calm and relaxed on her own.

See “7 Separation Anxiety Myths,” and “Relieving a Dog’s Separation Anxiety.”

3. Housetrain Your Puppy to Relieve Himself in Designated Places and/or Times
Once known as “housebreaking” – “housetraining” is a better term; what were we “breaking” anyway?! – the process of teaching your pup to eliminate where you want her to go is critically important. The process is very simple – but not always easy. Successful housetraining requires ultra-management: You simply never give your pup the opportunity to go to the bathroom anywhere other than the desired place(s).

Leashes, tethers, crates, baby gates, exercise pens, and eagle-eye supervision all come into play as your pup learns that “outdoors = bathroom” (or, for those who choose to teach their dogs to eliminate indoors, bathroom = pee pads or a sod box). The key is to take your pup to her potty spot more often than she has to go, and reinforce her when she “does her business.” At first take her out every hour on the hour, then gradually increase the length of time between bathroom trips.

It’s also a good idea to encourage her to go on different surfaces. Dogs develop “substrate preferences.” If you have her go only on grass you may find that she won’t go on gravel or dirt on those occasions when grass isn’t available.

After she goes, play with her for a bit; if she discovers that elimination makes the outdoor fun stop, she may learn to “hold it” as long as possible to prolong her outside time or interaction with you.

When you are sure she is empty, and after a bit of play, you can bring her back inside and give her some relative house freedom for 15-20 minutes, then put her back under your direct supervision or confinement until the next scheduled potty trip. As she comes to understand the concept of pottying outside, you can increase the length of time she gets post-potty house freedom.

In addition to her regular bathroom breaks, keep in mind that puppies usually need to eliminate not long after eating, and after any strenuous play sessions.

If you do catch her making a mistake, give her a cheerful, “Oops! Outside!” and escort her out to finish there. If you react strongly with a loud “No, bad dog!!” you may teach her that it’s not safe to go where you can see her, and she’ll learn to go to the back bedroom or behind the couch to poop and pee. Punishing accidents may also result in a dog who is reluctant to eliminate for you on leash, for fear that you will punish her. Just don’t.

See “How to Train Your Dog to Go to the Bathroom Outside.”

4. Only Enable Your Puppy to Chew on Designated Chew Objects
Just as dogs develop substrate preferences, they also develop preferences for certain things to chew on. If you manage your pup’s environment (with tethers, leashes, baby gates, exercise pens, and direct supervision) so she has opportunity to chew on only “legal” chew objects, you will be able to give her house freedom much sooner, with much more confidence that your valuables are safe.

Different dogs like different kinds of chews, so provide her with a wide variety of chewable items until you find what she likes. Remember that a dog’s need to chew goes far beyond puppyhood, so keep those chew objects handy throughout her life.

My general rule of thumb is that my dogs don’t get house freedom until they are at least a year old, and then only for short periods of time until I know that I can trust them not to chew.

See “How to Stop Your Dog from Eating All Your Shoes.”

5. A Positive Training Foundation Means an Obedient Dog
When force-free training was new to the dog world, 20 years or so ago, positive trainers had to endure a little (or a lot) of criticism about using treats for training. Now that positive training has come into its own, bolstered by studies that indicate that force-free training is faster and more effective than old-fashioned force-based methods, there is no need to be stingy with or defensive about food rewards.

I always have cookies in my pockets so I can always use treats to reinforce my dogs when the opportunity presents itself. Remember that all living creatures repeat behaviors that are reinforced. We all want to make good stuff happen! If you are good at reinforcing the behaviors you want, and making sure your pup doesn’t get reinforced for behaviors you don’t want (there’s that “management” thing again), your pup will spend lots of time trying to figure out what she needs to do to get you to give her treats. That’s a good thing.

See “Building a Strong Positive Training Foundation,” “Keep Dog Training Fun and Playful,” and “Dog Training Using Positive Techniques.”

puppy sitting nicely
6. Show Your Puppy It’s Fun to Learn New Things
Today’s skilled trainer knows that it’s important to make the whole training process fun for your pup. Along with treats, we want to incorporate happy voices, toys, and play as part of the training process. When you are selecting a training professional to work with you and your pup, either in private training or group classes, make sure you find one who is on board with the force-free, fun approach to training. Your pup’s eyes should light up with joy when you tell her it’s training time!

See “Fun Dog Activities.”

7. Teach Your Puppy a Fast Recall
Recalls (coming when called) may just be the single most important behavior you can teach your dog. A dog who has a solid recall can be given more freedom to run and play in areas where dogs are allowed off leash. Dogs who get to run and play are generally much healthier, both physically and mentally, and much easier to live with, as they can burn off excess energy by running around. A tired dog is a happy owner!

Use a recall cue that always means “good stuff” – such as a chance to play with a highly coveted toy or high-value treats – and never call your dog to you to do something she doesn’t love, like giving a pill, treating ears, or putting her in her crate. Certainly never call her to you and then punish or even just scold her. You never know; a solid recall might just save your dog’s life someday.

Unlike old-fashioned training, where you face your dog, command her to come, and jerk on the leash if she doesn’t, today’s positive trainer teaches the recall as another fun game to play with humans. I teach a “Run Away Come” by calling the dog and then running away fast, so the dog comes galloping and romping after her human, and gets to party with treats and/or toys when she catches up. The dog learns that “Come!” is an irresistible invitation to play the chase game.

See “Rocket Recall,” and “Training Your Dog to Execute an Extremely Fast Recall.”

8. Help Your Dog Associate Human Touch with Love
Our dogs have to put up with a lot of human touching throughout their lives, and they don’t always like it so much. You can hardly blame them; a lot of the touch is unpleasant, and combined with forced restraint and pain.

You can make life a lot easier for your dog if you teach her as a pup that human touch makes good stuff happen (basic classical conditioning), and minimizing restraint to that which is only absolutely necessary. There is a new movement in the veterinary world to use low-stress handling techniques, so dogs don’t have to be forcibly restrained for routine exams, blood draws, and vaccinations.

Begin by pairing non-invasive touches to your puppy with tasty treats; start somewhere non-threatening, perhaps with a touch to the side of her neck. Touch-treat. Touch-treat. Look for her eyes to light up when you touch her, and her head to swivel toward your treat hand. This is a “conditioned emotional response” (CER); it tells you she understands that the touch makes treats happen.

When this happens consistently, move your touch to other parts of her body that she might be less comfortable with: her ears, paws, or under her chest or belly. Make sure you get the CER at each new spot before proceeding any further. If she actively pulls away from you, you have proceeded too quickly; back up and go more slowly.

This process is invaluable, and will help you with everything from nail trimming to grooming to treating injuries.

See “Step-By-Step Training for Your Dog’s Next Vet Visit,” and “Force-Free Nail Trimming Techniques.”

9. Condition Your Puppy to Enjoy Car Rides
It’s very sad when a dog doesn’t ride well in cars. It limits our ability and willingness to take her places, and makes it very not-fun when we do! Fortunately, you can teach your pup that the car is a wonderful place, and set her up to love going places with you for the rest of her life.

Part of the problem is that for many pups, that first car ride is very traumatic. It may be the first time she’s separated from her mom and littermates, and the stress of the separation and movement of the car can cause her to get carsick. Bingo! She now associates the car with stress and vomiting. If possible, ask your pup’s breeder to give her some short car rides with some of her siblings so she has a better association with the event. You can also request that the breeder, shelter, or rescue group not feed your pup for a few hours prior to your scheduled pick-up, to reduce the likelihood of carsickness.

If it’s too late for all that, your next best bet is to work to change your pup’s already negative association with the car. Start by sitting in the car with her; don’t even turn on the engine. Give her yummy chew toys, play some training games with her – make the car a fun place to be.

When she’s happy about just being in the car (this may take several sessions; take your time!), turn the engine on and repeat the fun-and-games process, without driving anywhere. Then, with a helper doing the driving for you, continue to play car games while the car moves a very short distance. At the end of the ride, take her out of the car and do fun stuff with her, then put her back in the car and travel another short distance. Gradually have your driver take you longer distances, with fun stuff happening at every destination. In time, your “Want to go for a ride?” query will be met with happy wags and a dog who voluntarily hops in the car in anticipation of fun stuff.

If you have a dog who gets carsick even after all that, try giving her a ginger snap or two before the ride, and/or ask your vet for medication that will help calm her stomach.

See “What to Do if Your Dog Gets Motion Sickness,” and “Dogs Riding Safely and Calmly in Cars.”

10. Reinforce Your Puppy’s Trust
After her puppy socialization, this could be the most important thing you teach and affirm to your dog throughout her life. You have an obligation to be your dog’s advocate, and not allow anyone, no matter who they are, to do things to her that go against your gut instincts about how she should be treated.

If you are committed to force-free, fear-free, and pain-free handling and training, don’t ever let anyone talk you into treating her badly. No leash jerks, no collar shocks, no alpha rolls. Ever. Stick to your guns; there is always another way. If your animal care and/or training professional insists that the use of pain or force is necessary, find another one. There are plenty of professionals out there who will support and respect your wishes when it comes to handling your dog. She cannot speak for herself; she is counting on you to speak for her.

See “Reinforcing Your Dog’s Training Throughout His Lifetime,” and “Less Stressful Vet Visits.”

It’s Worth It
These lessons sound like a lot of work. Well, puppies are a lot of work. Fortunately, because they are so danged cute, there are plenty of humans who are willing to do the puppy stuff. If you are one of them, make sure you do it right, so your pup will grow up to be the dog you hope for and keep for the rest of her life in your loving home.

Marijuana (Pot, Cannabis, THC) Exposure and Toxicity in Dogs

Lost ball in canaThe legalization of marijuana for human medicinal treatment has increased exposure and toxicity in dogs. In fact, according to the Pet Poison Helpline, there has been a 448% increase in veterinary visits and calls to animal poison hotlines from marijuana exposure and toxicity.

Marijuana, also known as “pot,” is a psychoactive drug derived from the Cannabis plant that has been around for hundreds of years. The term marijuana most commonly refers to the tobacco product made from Cannabis leaves. There are two commonly discussed species of the Cannabis plant – Cannabis sativa and Cannabis indica. Cannabis is used for both recreational and medical purposes.

There are approximately 483 known compounds in the Cannabis plant and over 80 cannabinoids with Tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) being the most potent and psychogenic. The amount and concentration of each cannabinoid varies with the different plants and stains of plants. The concentration of THC found in plants is dependent on environmental conditions such as soil type, nutrients, elements, moisture, and exposure to light.

THC is present in the leaves and flowering tops of the cannabis plant. Hashish, another THC containing product, is the resin extracted from the plant. The second most commonly recognized cannabinoid is cannabidiol, commonly referred to as “CBD.” The difference between THC and CBD is that THC causes psychotropic effects (affect mentation), while CBD is felt to have limited toxicity and is not psychotropic.

The Cannabis plant is also known as “hemp,” but more commonly refers to strains with less psychogenic properties because of the minimal levels of tetrahydrocannabinol (THC). In people, THC is sometimes used to alleviate nausea associated with chemotherapy, help with muscle spasms caused by multiple sclerosis, to treat seizure disorders, and much more.

Learn more about the medical use and possible toxicity of CBD oil in Dogs.

Unfortunately, because of the illegal nature of these drugs and the concern over societal stigmas, diagnosis and treatment are often delayed. This brings up the point – what does your vet do if you bring a dog in with an illegal drug exposure? Learn the answer here.

How Does Marijuana Affect Dogs?
Some dogs will literally eat anything and can be exposed to marijuana by ingestion of cigarettes, dried leaves, or baked products containing marijuana. There are also reports of dogs eating human feces containing marijuana and second-hand smoke causing intoxication. Sometimes, owners intentionally give marijuana to their pets to “see what happens.”

Since legalization, new varieties and forms of the drug have made their way into the marketplace. Cannabis can be taken by ingestion capsule or ingested in various food products, including candy, suckers, cookies, brownies, butters, drinks, as well as by smoking or vaporizing. Absorption is enhanced by concurrent ingestion of fatty foods.

When inhaled or ingested, the THC enters the body and binds with neuroreceptors in the brain including norepinephrine, serotonin dopamine, and/or acetylcholine. This binding alters normal neurotransmitter function.

Signs of Marijuana Toxicity in Dogs
The most common side effects of marijuana intoxication in dogs are depression, lethargy, listlessness, loss of motor coordination or balance (stumbling), incontinence of urine, low heart rate, low blood pressure, low body temperature, respiratory depression, dilated pupils and glazed over eyes, vocalization like crying or whining, agitation, drooling, vomiting, seizures, and coma. Some dogs may experience hallucinations and have increased sensory stimulation to noises or fast movements.

The stereotypical dog that presents to a veterinary clinic for possible marijuana exposure is lethargic, listless, stumbling, glazed over eyes, may dribble urine, and hyper reacts to fast motions or noises in close proximity.

One danger with marijuana is that vomiting is common, and if the dog is profoundly lethargic and begins vomiting, aspiration of vomitus into the lungs can lead to severe breathing problems and even death. However, this is relatively uncommon.

The signs of exposure to marijuana in dogs can begin as quickly as 5 minutes to 12 hours after exposure with most showing signs within one hour. The effects can last from a half hour to several days depending on the amount and type of marijuana ingested.

How Toxic is Marijuana?
THC is readily stored in the body’s fat tissue including the liver, brain, and kidneys. The liver metabolizes it and much of it is excreted in the feces and urine.

The good news is that marijuana exposure or ingestion is rarely deadly and long-term complications are uncommon. Toxicity of marijuana in dogs is low. It takes about 1.5 grams of marijuana per pound of body weight to be fatal. Therefore, death from marijuana ingestion is not common. This may change with the production of higher concentration palatable products. The most severe problems relating to marijuana exposure or ingestion in dogs have been from high concentrations of medical-grade THC.

Diagnosis of Marijuana Toxicity in Dogs
Diagnosis of marijuana ingestion or exposure in dogs is often based on the physical exam findings and history of exposure. There are human urine tests to determine the presence of THC that can be used, but are not dependable in dogs, often producing false negative results.

Treatment of Marijuana Toxicity in Dogs
There is no antidote for marijuana. This means that the treatment of marijuana exposure usually involves trying to eliminate the drug from a dog’s system, treat secondary signs, and provide support until the drug is eliminated from their systems.

Treatments for marijuana intoxication in dogs may include:

Induction of vomiting may be recommended to remove residual THC in the stomach. Medications used to induce vomiting may include apomorphine or hydrogen peroxide.
Depending on the severity of the signs, some dogs may be administered activated charcoal to help absorb or bind any marijuana in their system.
Medications may be given to control vomiting, such as maropitant or ondansetron.
Intravenous (IV) fluids may be given to help eliminate the drug.
In severe cases of marijuana toxicity, drugs may be needed to treat seizures and control abnormal heart rates.
IV lipid therapy can be used in severely affected patients.
It is important to protect dogs from injury or self-trauma during this time. Because of the range of signs, including agitation, lethargy, hallucinations, and incoordination, some dogs are vulnerable to falling or reacting abnormally to loud noises.
The ideal environment for a dog with marijuana ingestion and toxicity is a quiet dark area in the house away from stairs, high furniture, sharp objects, and bodies of water (such as lakes, swimming pools) while the THC is being eliminated from their systems.
The vast majority of dogs exposed to marijuana fully recover within 24 hours. After ingestion, THC is rapidly absorbed, and generally, within 24 hours, most of the THC has been excreted.

Prevention of Marijuana Toxicity in Dogs
If you have marijuana in your home, please keep it out of the reach of your dogs. If marijuana is being smoked, keep all pets in a separate area with excellent ventilation until all smoke has dissipated.

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